Thursday, February 11, 2010
ANYONE CAN COMPOST
Anyone can compost, and just about anything that once lived is suitable for composting.
A compost pile doesn't have to be anything fancy. You don't need a special bin or container. Organic material will eventually break down into humus, no matter how or where it is stored. However, some sort of barrel, box or bin will keep your backyard compost pile tidier, keep the neighbors happier, and discourage rodents, flies, and other animal pests.
There are dozens of composters available for the home gardener today.
Compost basics
Plant material can be turned into compost in as little as two weeks, or it can take as much as a year. The speed at which the decomposition occurs depends on the size of the material you are composting, The process is speeded up even further by keeping the pile moist and turning it regularly to expose all of the material to the air.
The natural process of composting is carried out by the thousands of micro-organisms which live naturally in soil. These organisms, like all living things, need food, air and water. They feed on the organic waste materials, converting it into compost. This process generates sufficient heat to keep the organisms going as well as killing off most harmful bacteria and weed seeds. As the organic matter is consumed, the available oxygen diminishes, and the temperature in the middle of the pile will begin to drop, slowing the process to a stop. Turning or stirring the pile frequently puts more oxygen into the pile and the heat will build again, speeding the process along. The pile should be kept moist, but never soggy.
A compost pile doesn't have to be anything fancy. You don't need a special bin or container. Organic material will eventually break down into humus, no matter how or where it is stored. However, some sort of barrel, box or bin will keep your backyard compost pile tidier, keep the neighbors happier, and discourage rodents, flies, and other animal pests.
There are dozens of composters available for the home gardener today.
Compost basics
Plant material can be turned into compost in as little as two weeks, or it can take as much as a year. The speed at which the decomposition occurs depends on the size of the material you are composting, The process is speeded up even further by keeping the pile moist and turning it regularly to expose all of the material to the air.
The natural process of composting is carried out by the thousands of micro-organisms which live naturally in soil. These organisms, like all living things, need food, air and water. They feed on the organic waste materials, converting it into compost. This process generates sufficient heat to keep the organisms going as well as killing off most harmful bacteria and weed seeds. As the organic matter is consumed, the available oxygen diminishes, and the temperature in the middle of the pile will begin to drop, slowing the process to a stop. Turning or stirring the pile frequently puts more oxygen into the pile and the heat will build again, speeding the process along. The pile should be kept moist, but never soggy.
HOW TO INSTALL
1. Place the bin in the backyard or on the roof top, preferably on a platform or rest each of the three legs of the bin on a brick at soil level.
2. Fill the bottom of the bin till the first hole level with an admixture of 1/3 top soil and 2/3 vegetable matter of dried and fresh leaves including vegetable waste. Add one packet of bioculam powder ( catalytical activator)
2. Fill the bottom of the bin till the first hole level with an admixture of 1/3 top soil and 2/3 vegetable matter of dried and fresh leaves including vegetable waste. Add one packet of bioculam powder ( catalytical activator)
supplied along with the bin an sprinkle water to wet the leaves and not the extent of raining outside the bin.
3. Keep putting organic wastes like vegetable peels, vegetable cuttings, garden sweepings into the bin adding water to wet the wastes.
PRECAUTIONS
1. Do not put any non bio-degradable products like paper , glass or metal components in the bin.
2.Avoid adding cooked food or non-vegetarian food .
3. Do not tilt the bin with material inside as it could damage the bin.
2.Avoid adding cooked food or non-vegetarian food .
3. Do not tilt the bin with material inside as it could damage the bin.
COMPOST COLLECTION
1. When the bottom matter turns blackish after a month or so, open the door or lift the mesh and scoop the composte matter.
2.If there are any undecomposed matter put it back into the bin along with a handful of compost.
3. Use the compost for your garen and watch your flowers bloom .
2.If there are any undecomposed matter put it back into the bin along with a handful of compost.
3. Use the compost for your garen and watch your flowers bloom .
Wednesday, January 13, 2010
WHAT WE NEED FOR VERMICOMPOSTING
-Compost pit of any convenient dimension can be dug in the backyard or garden.
The most convenient pit of easily manageable size is 2m x 1m x 0.75m. or -
A tank may be constructed with brick and mortar with proper water outlets, or
- A plastic crate (600 mm x 300 mm x 300 mm) with holes drilled at the bottom or
- Empty wooden crates (deal wood boxes/apple cases) or
-Well rings made of cement or clay of 750 mm diameter and 300 to 450 mm height.
- A 25-litre bucket with holes at the bottom may also be used
- The composting unit must be in an area which has shade.
PROCEDURE
Vermitech is carried out by placing
• a basal layer of broken bricks or pebbles mixed with sand to a thickness of at least 6 to 7.5 cms to ensure proper drainage.
• This forms the vermibed
• This is followed by a layer of soil to a height of not less than 15 cms after being moistened.
• About 100 earthworms may be introduced into a compost pit of about 2m x 1m x 0.75m, with a vermibed of about 15 to 20 cm thick.
• The vermibed should always be kept moist, but should never be flooded.
• Small lumps of fresh cattle dung are then placed at random over the vermibed.
• The compost pit is then layered to about 50 mm with dry leaves or preferably chopped hay/straw.
• The next 30 days the pit is kept moist by watering it whenever necessary.
• The bed should neither be dry nor soggy.
• The pit may then be covered with coconut or Palmyra leaves or an old jute (gunny) bag to discourage birds.
• Plastic sheets on the bed are to be avoided as they trap heat.
The most convenient pit of easily manageable size is 2m x 1m x 0.75m. or -
A tank may be constructed with brick and mortar with proper water outlets, or
- A plastic crate (600 mm x 300 mm x 300 mm) with holes drilled at the bottom or
- Empty wooden crates (deal wood boxes/apple cases) or
-Well rings made of cement or clay of 750 mm diameter and 300 to 450 mm height.
- A 25-litre bucket with holes at the bottom may also be used
- The composting unit must be in an area which has shade.
PROCEDURE
Vermitech is carried out by placing
• a basal layer of broken bricks or pebbles mixed with sand to a thickness of at least 6 to 7.5 cms to ensure proper drainage.
• This forms the vermibed
• This is followed by a layer of soil to a height of not less than 15 cms after being moistened.
• About 100 earthworms may be introduced into a compost pit of about 2m x 1m x 0.75m, with a vermibed of about 15 to 20 cm thick.
• The vermibed should always be kept moist, but should never be flooded.
• Small lumps of fresh cattle dung are then placed at random over the vermibed.
• The compost pit is then layered to about 50 mm with dry leaves or preferably chopped hay/straw.
• The next 30 days the pit is kept moist by watering it whenever necessary.
• The bed should neither be dry nor soggy.
• The pit may then be covered with coconut or Palmyra leaves or an old jute (gunny) bag to discourage birds.
• Plastic sheets on the bed are to be avoided as they trap heat.
WASTE THAT COULD BE USED FOR VERMICOMPOSTING
Kitchen wastes - Peel, rind and unused pulp of fruits and vegetables.
• After the first 30 days, wet organic waste of animal and/or plant origin from the kitchen is spread over it to a thickness of about 50 mm.
• This can be repeated twice a week.
• All these organic wastes can be turned over or mixed periodically with a pickaxe or a spade.
• Care should be taken not to disturb the vermibed in which the worms live.
• Keep adding garbage till the compost pit is nearly full.
• Continue to keep the pit moist for another 30 to 45 days, turning over the material in the pit with care avoiding injury to the worms.
• Turning over can be done on every fifth or seventh day with the help of a forked spade.
• Regular watering should be done to keep the right amount of moisture in the pits.
• In 60 to 90 days the compost should be ready as indicated by the presence of earthworm castings (vermicompost) on the top of the bed.
• The compost should be turned occasionally since this allows for aeration
• Vermicompost which is granular , brownish black in colour can now be harvested from the bin/pit.
• The material should be placed in a heap in the sun so that most of the worms move down to the cool base of the heap.
• The compost is then sieved before being packed. . The earthworms and the thicker material, which remains on top of the sieve, goes back in the bin and the process starts again.
• After the first 30 days, wet organic waste of animal and/or plant origin from the kitchen is spread over it to a thickness of about 50 mm.
• This can be repeated twice a week.
• All these organic wastes can be turned over or mixed periodically with a pickaxe or a spade.
• Care should be taken not to disturb the vermibed in which the worms live.
• Keep adding garbage till the compost pit is nearly full.
• Continue to keep the pit moist for another 30 to 45 days, turning over the material in the pit with care avoiding injury to the worms.
• Turning over can be done on every fifth or seventh day with the help of a forked spade.
• Regular watering should be done to keep the right amount of moisture in the pits.
• In 60 to 90 days the compost should be ready as indicated by the presence of earthworm castings (vermicompost) on the top of the bed.
• The compost should be turned occasionally since this allows for aeration
• Vermicompost which is granular , brownish black in colour can now be harvested from the bin/pit.
• The material should be placed in a heap in the sun so that most of the worms move down to the cool base of the heap.
• The compost is then sieved before being packed. . The earthworms and the thicker material, which remains on top of the sieve, goes back in the bin and the process starts again.
VERMIWASH
-Foliar Sprays are a part of plant growing practices.
-Worm worked soils have burrows formed by the earthworms.
-Bacteria richly inhabit these burrows, also called as the drilospheres.
-Water passing through these passages washes the nutrients from these burrows and forms the vermiwash.
-Vermiwash is a very good foliar spray.
-Worm worked soils have burrows formed by the earthworms.
-Bacteria richly inhabit these burrows, also called as the drilospheres.
-Water passing through these passages washes the nutrients from these burrows and forms the vermiwash.
-Vermiwash is a very good foliar spray.
SETTING UP OF A VERMIWASH UNIT
- Vermiwash units can be set up either in barrels or in buckets or even in small earthen pots.
- The procedure explained here is for setting up of a 250 litre barrel.
-An empty barrel with one side open is taken.
-On the other side, a hole is made to accommodate the vertical limb of a 'T' jointed tube in a way that about half to one inch of the tube projects into the barrel.
- To one end of the horizontal limb is attached a tap. The other end is kept closed.
-This serves as an emergency opening to clean the 'T' jointed tube if it gets clogged.
- The entire unit is set up on a short pedestal made of few bricks to
facilitate easy collection of vermiwash.
- Keeping the tap open, a 25 cm layer of broken bricks or pebbles is placed.
- A 25 cm layer of coarse sand then follows the layer of bricks.
-Water is then made to flow through these layers to enable the setting up of the basic filter unit.
- On top of this layer is placed a 30 to 45 cm layer of loamy soil.
- It is moistened and into this are introduced about 50 numbers of earthworms.
- Cattle dung pats and hay is placed on top of the soil layer and gently moistened.
- The tap is kept open for the next 15 days.
- Water is added every day to keep the unit moist.
- On the 16th day, the tap is closed and on top of the unit a metal container perforated at the base as a sprinkler is suspended.
- 5 litres of water (the volume of water taken in this container is one fiftieth of the size of the main container) is poured into this container and allowed to gradually sprinkle on the barrel overnight.
-This water percolates through the compost, the burrows of the earthworms and gets collected at the base.
-The tap of the unit is opened the next day morning and the vermiwash is collected.
-The tap is then closed and the suspended pot is refilled with 5 litres of water that evening to be collected again the following morning. ---Dung pats and hay may be replaced periodically based on need.
- The entire set up may be emptied and reset between 10 and 12 months of use.
-Vermiwash is diluted with water (10%) before spraying. This has been found to be an excellent foliar spray.
- The procedure explained here is for setting up of a 250 litre barrel.
-An empty barrel with one side open is taken.
-On the other side, a hole is made to accommodate the vertical limb of a 'T' jointed tube in a way that about half to one inch of the tube projects into the barrel.
- To one end of the horizontal limb is attached a tap. The other end is kept closed.
-This serves as an emergency opening to clean the 'T' jointed tube if it gets clogged.
- The entire unit is set up on a short pedestal made of few bricks to
facilitate easy collection of vermiwash.
- Keeping the tap open, a 25 cm layer of broken bricks or pebbles is placed.
- A 25 cm layer of coarse sand then follows the layer of bricks.
-Water is then made to flow through these layers to enable the setting up of the basic filter unit.
- On top of this layer is placed a 30 to 45 cm layer of loamy soil.
- It is moistened and into this are introduced about 50 numbers of earthworms.
- Cattle dung pats and hay is placed on top of the soil layer and gently moistened.
- The tap is kept open for the next 15 days.
- Water is added every day to keep the unit moist.
- On the 16th day, the tap is closed and on top of the unit a metal container perforated at the base as a sprinkler is suspended.
- 5 litres of water (the volume of water taken in this container is one fiftieth of the size of the main container) is poured into this container and allowed to gradually sprinkle on the barrel overnight.
-This water percolates through the compost, the burrows of the earthworms and gets collected at the base.
-The tap of the unit is opened the next day morning and the vermiwash is collected.
-The tap is then closed and the suspended pot is refilled with 5 litres of water that evening to be collected again the following morning. ---Dung pats and hay may be replaced periodically based on need.
- The entire set up may be emptied and reset between 10 and 12 months of use.
-Vermiwash is diluted with water (10%) before spraying. This has been found to be an excellent foliar spray.
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